Month: February 2019

Introducing Relish, Our Handy New Grocery-Shopping Assistant

Introducing Relish, Our Handy New Grocery-Shopping Assistant

[Photograph: Vicky Wasik] We’ve been brewing up something special for our readers for quite some time, and we’re finally ready to make it public. It’s called Relish, and it’s basically an electronic assistant for your grocery-shopping needs. Perhaps you’ve even spotted it already—it’s been hanging […]

7 Sous Recipes for Chicken, Duck, and Turkey

7 Sous Recipes for Chicken, Duck, and Turkey

[Photographs: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt] We know even the mention of sous vide can induce anxiety. For those of us who mostly rely on the heat of our stovetop or oven to cook poultry, the idea of cooking it in a slow water bath at an […]

14 Sweet and Savory Waffle Recipes

14 Sweet and Savory Waffle Recipes


[Photographs: J. Kenji López-Alt, Morgan Eisenberg, Daniel Shumski]

A waffle iron might seem like something of a specialty appliance, but with a little creativity you can get a ton of use out of it. You can make waffles, obviously—classic buttermilk, gluten-free sweet potato, tamale-inspired green chili, and more—but that’s just the start. You can make lots of other things too, from churros to hash browns to ramen. Still not sold? How about making leftover mashed potatoes, macaroni and cheese, or French fries as good as new? To find all of our favorite uses for this surprisingly versatile gadget, keep reading for 14 waffle-iron recipes.

Don’t have a waffle iron yet? Check out our recommendations!

Waffles

Buttermilk Vanilla Waffles

[Photograph: Vicky Wasik]

These airy waffles are leavened with steam, flecked with aromatic vanilla bean, and have a touch of tangy buttermilk. Make sure to use just egg whites for the perfect texture—whole eggs will make the waffles too dense.

Buttermilk Vanilla Waffles Recipe »

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Overnight Brown-Butter Yeast-Raised Waffles

[Photograph: Vicky Wasik]

The batter for these waffles needs to sit overnight, but they only take a couple minutes to whip up, so you can throw it together on a whim to give future you an easy gift. Brown butter gives the waffles a nutty richness and the overnight rise gives them a crust that is thin but super crispy.

Overnight Brown-Butter Yeast-Raised Waffles Recipe »

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Gluten-Free Sweet Potato and Corn Waffles

[Photograph: Elizabeth Barbone]

People with gluten intolerance can enjoy waffles, too, thanks to this recipe made with corn flour, sorghum flour, cornstarch, and sweet potato purée (or canned pumpkin). Be sure to look for a brand of corn flour specifically labeled gluten-free because some are cross-contaminated with wheat.

Gluten-Free Sweet Potato and Corn Waffles Recipe »

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Fully Loaded Mexican Fried Chicken With Green Chili–Corn Waffles

[Photograph: Morgan Eisenberg]

This waffle is inspired by a tamale and made with masa harina, cornmeal, and roasted poblano peppers. To keep the theme going, we top it with guacamole, ancho-honey bacon, and fried chicken that is marinated in lime juice and breaded with more masa and cornmeal. Salsa roja and crema bring everything together.

Fully Loaded Mexican Fried Chicken With Green Chili–Corn Waffles Recipe »

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Bacon, Cheese, and Scallion Waffles

[Photograph: J. Kenji López-Alt]

Another savory waffle, this one is packed with bacon, cheese, and scallions. The cheese stays gooey in the center of the waffle but oozes out and crisps up along the edges for a nice textural contrast. Top with maple syrup for a sweet-savory note.

Bacon, Cheese, and Scallion Waffles Recipe »

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Waffle-Like Objects

Waffled Mashed Potatoes With Bacon, Scallion, and Cheddar

[Photograph: Daniel Shumski]

Reheating mashed potatoes is a recipe for disappointment—they invariably dry out and become a shadow of their former glory. But don’t throw out your leftovers, because you can breathe new life into yesterday’s mashed potatoes by using them as the base for a waffle batter. The bacon, scallions, and cheddar aren’t strictly necessary, but a little bacon and cheese make everything better.

Waffled Mashed Potatoes With Bacon, Scallion, and Cheddar Recipe »

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Stuffing Waffles

[Photograph: J. Kenji López-Alt]

This recipe is perfect for the day after Thanksgiving, but it’s so amazingly delicious that it might motivate you to make stuffing year-round. The waffle iron maximizes the stuffing’s crispiness while leaving the interior slightly custardy. When we first made these we weren’t sure whether to serve them with gravy or maple syrup, but it turns out the right answer both.

Stuffing Waffles Recipe »

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Macaroni and Cheese Waffles

[Photograph: J. Kenji López-Alt]

There are a variety of ways to make macaroni and cheese waffles, but our favorite is simply setting the mac up in the waffle iron until it gets crisp on the outside and melty on the inside. We do have one trick, though—we sandwich the macaroni around grated cheddar for extra cheesiness.

Macaroni and Cheese Waffles Recipe »

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Waffle-Iron Ramen

[Photograph: Daniel Shumski]

Turning to the waffle iron is a great way to make this college standby a little more interesting. To waffle your ramen, soak the noodles in hot water for a few minutes and mix them with egg to help bind them together. Do yourself a favor and ditch the seasoning packet—soy sauce, sesame seeds, and sesame oil are a much better way to go.

Waffle-Iron Ramen Recipe »

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Waffle-Iron “Fried” Cheese (Queso Frito)

[Photograph: Daniel Shumski]

Inspired by the crispy cheese that leaks out of a quesadilla, we make this snack by breading squares of cheese and “frying” them in the waffle iron. The recipe calls for low-moisture mozzarella, but you could just as easily use another melting cheese like provolone, Jack, or cheddar.

Waffle-Iron “Fried” Cheese (Queso Frito) Recipe »

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Waffle-Iron Hash Browns

[Photograph: Daniel Shumski]

Waffle-iron hash browns aren’t a gimmick—I truly believe this is the best way to cook the diner classic. The waffle iron gives the hash browns a great ratio of crisp edge to tender interior with minimal work. Like with any hash browns, it’s critical to wring out the shredded potatoes before cooking to get out as much water as possible.

Waffle-Iron Hash Browns Recipe »

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French Fry Waffles

[Photograph: J. Kenji López-Alt]

We used to think that the only good way to reheat old French fries was by refrying them, which works wonderfully but means dealing with a pot of hot oil. It turns out a waffle iron works remarkably well, turning your leftovers into crispy pull-apart fries in 10 to 15 minutes.

French Fry Waffles Recipe »

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Buffalo Chicken Puff Pastry Waffles

[Photograph: J. Kenji López-Alt]

A few years ago we discovered the wonders of rolling ingredients up in puff pastry and waffling them. We’ve tried everything from pepperoni pizza to guava and cream cheese, but my favorite is this Buffalo chicken version made with shredded chicken, Frank’s RedHot, and blue cheese.

Buffalo Chicken Puff Pastry Waffles Recipe »

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Waffle-Iron Churros

[Photograph: Daniel Shumski]

Don’t put the waffle iron away just yet—it’s time for dessert. Here we make extra-crispy churros without a deep fryer. As an added bonus, the churros end up with lots of little pockets to collect chocolate sauce.

Waffle-Iron Churros Recipe »

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This post may contain links to Amazon or other partners; your purchases via these links can benefit Serious Eats. Read more about our affiliate linking policy.



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24 Clam, Oyster, and Mussel Recipes for Shellfish Lovers

24 Clam, Oyster, and Mussel Recipes for Shellfish Lovers

[Photographs: Vicky Wasik, Sydney Oland, Emily and Matt Clifton] There is an old myth that says you should only eat raw oysters in months that contain the letter “r” (September through April). I personally feel pretty comfortable eating them year-round, but it is true that […]

Charred Broccoli With Taleggio Cheese Sauce and Gremolata Recipe

Charred Broccoli With Taleggio Cheese Sauce and Gremolata Recipe

4. In a large cast iron skillet, heat 2 tablespoons (30ml) vegetable oil over high heat until smoking. Working in batches if necessary to avoid crowding the pan, add broccoli steaks, season with salt, and cook, using a small cast iron skillet or weight to […]

Turn Cheesy Broccoli Into a Real-Deal Main Course

Turn Cheesy Broccoli Into a Real-Deal Main Course


Overhead shot of plated charred broccoli with cheese sauce, with side dish of gremolata.

[Photographs: Vicky Wasik]

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Buying tips, techniques, and recipes, no matter how you like them.

Much like corn and cotija or tomato and mozzarella, cheesy broccoli is an iconic veg-and-cheese combination that we love to tinker with and reimagine. For the latest entry in the broccoli-and-cheese saga, I wanted to create a satisfying vegetarian main course that could stand on its own like a steak entrée and feel just as indulgent. So it made sense to treat the broccoli more like meat, portioning the heads into large fillet-like pieces rather than florets. These broccoli steaks get paired with a rich Taleggio cheese sauce as well as a no-waste gremolata made from broccoli stems and scraps. Stem-to-floret cooking is just as cool as nose-to-tail.

An American Taleggio Cheese Sauce

Closeup of Taleggio cheese.

If you’ve ever made a cheeseburger, fondue, or a heaping pile of game-day nachos, you’re probably aware that some cheeses are better-suited to melting than others.

Without getting too deep into the science weeds (or curds), the general rule is that younger cheeses, such as Jack and Swiss, melt the best due to their high moisture content and loose protein network. Drier aged varieties, such as Parmigiano and Manchego, pack more flavor but have a harder time becoming molten—attempts at melting them usually result in a sad, greasy puddle of rubbery casein proteins. Needless to say this is not what we want when making a cheese sauce.

There are a number of workarounds to the melting paradox, all of which allow us to create cheese sauces that don’t sacrifice flavor for texture. We can take the processed American cheese route and use emulsifying salts like sodium citrate to create stable emulsions with older cheeses. You can achieve similar results using more readily available ingredients—like cornstarch and evaporated milk—to make your queso dreams come true. But what if I told you that there is an even simpler solution? All you need is a stronger-flavored young cheese and some heavy cream.

Cutting Taleggio into pieces for the cheese sauce.

This cheese sauce, which I borrowed from chef Ignacio Mattos’ brilliant Estela cookbook, is made with Taleggio, a stinky Italian washed-rind cheese with a yeasty flavor and excellent melting capabilities.

Start by cutting away the pale orange rind and then dice up the cheese into small pieces. As with bacon, Taleggio is easier to slice when cold. Pop it in the freezer for 10 minutes before you start working with it, and you’ll have a much easier time. Once the cheese is cubed, place it in a high-sided, heat-proof liquid measuring cup or bowl.

Pouring hot cream over Taleggio and covering with plastic wrap for cheese sauce.

Then bring a little heavy cream to a simmer and pour it over the Taleggio. Immediately wrap the container tightly with plastic wrap. Trapping the steam gently softens the Taleggio, and after the mixture has steeped for 20 minutes, all you need to do is buzz it into a smooth, gooey sauce with an immersion blender.

Process shots of blending cheese sauce.

At this point, the sauce can be set aside or popped in the refrigerator, where it will last for a few days. Before serving, all you need to do is nuke it in the microwave for a few seconds at a time until it loosens back up and is warmed through (just be careful not to get it too hot, or it could break).

The one small trade-off with this technique is temperature—the method is designed to prevent the cheese from overheating and breaking, but that also means it doesn’t ever get as hot as some other cheese sauces might. Put it on a cold plate or leave it standing too long, and it’ll reach room temp even sooner. The good news is that I think this sauce tastes best when served warm, and, thanks to the already soft cheese used to make it, it doesn’t firm up as it cools the way other cheese sauces can, so it’s just as flowing and delicious an hour after dinner when you’re licking up the remnants in the kitchen.

Choppin’ Broccoli

Broccoli cut into steaks, stems, and floret scraps.

I love broccoli when it’s charred, but I hate when it’s mushy. When cut into standard florets, it overcooks easily; if your pan isn’t hot enough or you overcrowd it, you will end up steaming your brassicas before they can take on enough color. Smaller pieces also make the window for carry-over cooking tighter. Plus, quickly turning dozens of pieces of broccoli in a pan to make sure they are browning (or blackening) evenly is tedious. So for this recipe, I ditched the floret approach.

Instead, I portioned broccoli heads into thick-cut cross-sectioned steaks for searing. Broccoli and cauliflower steaks have been a restaurant trend in recent years, and that trend has led to recipes designed for people at home, but the truth is it’s a technique that doesn’t easily lend itself to home cooking. That’s because making big planks for searing inevitably means lots of waste from trimming the vegetable down. That’s waste a good restaurant can usually find a way to use, even in a different dish or family meal, but a home cook doesn’t have as many outlets to funnel such scraps. My solution for this is to design this dish with the intention of using up all those broccoli scraps. In this case, I chop them up to make a punchy gremolata that will garnish the seared broccoli.

Process shots of cutting broccoli into steaks.

To make the vegetable steaks, start by separating the main stalk from the broccoli’s crown just below where the floret stalks converge. The key is to keep the florets connected—cut too close to the florets and they’ll separate into too-small pieces.

Next, cut the crowns lengthwise into 3/4-inch-thick planks. Exactly how many planks you get out of a crown will depend on the broccoli; smaller crowns can be simply cut in half, while bigger ones can be portioned into thirds. No matter what, I trim every piece to ensure it has two flat sides, reserving the scraps for the gremolata.

Process shots of cutting broccoli stems and floret scraps for gremolata.

Along with the stray florets, broccoli stems are packed with flavor and have a wonderful crisp texture. They should never go to waste. For this dish, cut away their fibrous exterior and then cut the stems into a fine dice (cut them into planks, then matchsticks, and finally into small cubes that the French or your know-it-all foodie friend would call a brunoise). Run your knife over the floret scraps, and pop them in a bowl with the diced-up stems.

Little Waste, Gremolata Flavor

Making broccoli stem gremolata.

When it comes to sauces and condiments, you’d be hard-pressed to find one that is simpler than gremolata. Chopped fresh parsley and garlic, stirred together with lemon zest and olive oil—that’s pretty much it. You may be most familiar with it as a topping for osso buco.

This version tones down the garlic a little, so that it doesn’t blow away the Taleggio sauce and brings the broccoli scraps into the fold (while this isn’t necessarily traditional, it does speak to the waste-nothing approach of Italian peasant cooking, known as cucina povera) as well as minced jalapeño for a little heat. I like to mix everything together and let the gremolata hang out at room temperature to let the flavors marry.

In the Cut I’m Charring Up My Broccoli

Overhead shot of charred broccoli pieces cooking in a cast iron skillet.

The last order of business is cooking the broccoli steaks. Yes, it is a little silly to call a vegetable a steak, but it’s not that far off here, seeing as I sear the broccoli much in the same way I would a rib eye. I get a large cast iron pan screaming hot, add a generous amount of vegetable oil, and then go in with the broccoli. It’s important not to overcrowd the pan; depending on the size of your broccoli and pan, you may need to work in batches.

Process shots of cooking and weighing down broccoli in a cast iron skillet.

To promote an even browning and cooking rate, I like to place a weight on top of the vegetables. A heavy skillet or Dutch oven (with its bottom wrapped in aluminum foil to prevent any unwanted carbon residue from being transferred to the surface of the roast) will do the trick, but I also really love the design of the Chef’s Press weights pictured above. They’re compact and stackable, and they have a handle, which makes them easy to maneuver during cooking.

Closeup of turning broccoli pieces after charring on first side.

Once the broccoli pieces are well-browned on the first side, I flip them over, adding a little more oil to the skillet. Don’t be afraid to rotate the pieces around in the skillet to account for hot spots and uneven burner flames, especially in cast iron, which is notorious for uneven heating.

Testing broccoli for doneness with a paring knife.

As I mentioned earlier, I am not a fan of soft and mushy broccoli. If you’re in the same camp as me, cook the broccoli pieces on the second side just until the bottom stem section is tender enough to be pierced with a paring knife or cake tester without much resistance. If you prefer broccoli more cooked through, you can keep the pieces in the pan; just turn down the heat a little to prevent them from scorching. There is a difference between charred and burnt to a crisp.

Charred broccoli pieces on a paper towel–lined baking sheet.

Keep in mind that, as with a steak, there will be some carry-over cooking once you get the broccoli out of the skillet. I’m not saying you need to be checking vegetables with an instant-read thermometer, but don’t wait too long to get them off the heat.

Spooning gremolata over charred broccoli.

Once your broccoli steaks are perfectly cooked, it’s time to plate. It’s up to you whether you serve this dish in individual portions or family-style. Either way, start with an even layer of Taleggio sauce on a warmed plate, followed by the broccoli pieces, and then finish by spooning the gremolata on top. Just like that, another chapter in the broccoli-and-cheese love story is in the books.

Overhead shot of serving platter with charred broccoli on top of cheese sauce with gremolata.

This post may contain links to Amazon or other partners; your purchases via these links can benefit Serious Eats. Read more about our affiliate linking policy.



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How to Make Tate’s Style Thin and Crispy Chocolate Chip Cookies

How to Make Tate’s Style Thin and Crispy Chocolate Chip Cookies

[Photographs: Vicky Wasik. Video: Serious Eats Team] Thin and crispy chocolate chip cookies are the Pringles of dessert, so rich and crunchy and light that it’s hard to stop at half a dozen, let alone one. It’s a style best personified by Tate’s, a brand […]

Thin and Crispy Chocolate Chip Cookies Recipe

Thin and Crispy Chocolate Chip Cookies Recipe

1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). In the bowl of a food processor, combine flour, light brown sugar, raw cane sugar, salt, and baking soda. Process until well-combined; add cold butter and pulse to form a dry and […]

13 Stock and Broth Recipes

13 Stock and Broth Recipes


[Photographs: Vicky Wasik]

Hey, you. I see you there, sneaking your cart into the soup aisle of your supermarket. You thought you could furtively grab a few boxes of stock off the shelf without anyone noticing. You know you shouldn’t, but your mind is filled with excuses.

“It’s so much easier! Who will know the difference?”

Stop. Put down the boxes. I know that store-bought stock is tempting. The truth is I’ve been right where you’re standing, and in moments of weakness I’ve made the same mistake you are about to. But I’m here to tell you that it doesn’t need to be this way. Homemade stock is infinitely more delicious than anything you can buy, especially if you add a pack of gelatin to the pot. It’s cheaper, too, and easier than you might think. So whether you need chicken, beef, or vegetable stock—or even a fish stock or ramen broth—I have you covered. Keep reading for 13 recipes that will keep you from ever needing to buy a box of stock again.

Stovetop Stocks

Basic Chicken Stock

[Photograph: Vicky Wasik]

It doesn’t get much simpler or more versatile than a classic chicken stock. We make ours with whatever chicken parts we have on hand and a handful of aromatics (dicing them gives the stock more flavor).

Basic Chicken Stock Recipe »

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Brown Turkey Stock

[Photograph: Vicky Wasik]

Most people probably only make turkey stock after Thanksgiving (if ever), but this recipe is good enough to break out year-round. Roasting the turkey bones, browning the vegetables, and adding a couple tablespoons of tomato paste gives the stock a deeper, richer flavor.

Brown Turkey Stock Recipe »

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Quick and Easy Fish Stock (Fumet)

[Photograph: Vicky Wasik]

Fish stock doesn’t have the same versatility as chicken stock, but there is no better way to maximize the flavor of seafood soups. The technique is basically the same, but we stick with white and green aromatics to preserve the soup’s light color. Washing the fish bones isn’t a must, but it will make for a more delicate stock.

Quick and Easy Fish Stock (Fumet) Recipe »

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Basic Japanese Dashi

[Photograph: Shutterstock.com]

Dashi is one of the most important ingredients in Japanese cooking. You can buy it in powdered form, but there’s no reason to given all you need to make it is dried kombu and bonito flakes (both of which should be available in the Asian section of any reasonably well-stocked supermarket).

Basic Japanese Dashi Recipe »

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Quick and Easy Vegetable Stock

[Photograph: Vicky Wasik]

As much as we like big involved recipes, sometimes shortcuts are great, too. This easy vegetable stock is plenty flavorful for most uses and comes together in just a half-hour with three main ingredients: carrots, onions, and garlic. From that base you can add as much complexity as you want—celery and fresh herbs are great additions.

Quick and Easy Vegetable Stock Recipe »

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Hearty Vegetable Stock

[Photograph: J. Kenji López-Alt]

Without meat, vegetable stock relies on a variety of ingredients for richness and depth of flavor. A mix of alliums—yellow onion, leek tops, and garlic—is a good start, and herbs add to the aroma. You can make a decent stock stopping there, but for an extra hit of umami, we like to add kombu and dried mushrooms.

Hearty Vegetable Stock Recipe »

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Pressure Cooker Stocks

Pressure Cooker Chicken Stock

[Photograph: Vicky Wasik]

While you can certainly make great chicken stock in a regular pot, a pressure cooker is the best tool in terms of both flavor and speed. All you have to do is throw all your ingredients in the cooker, cover with water, and let cook at pressure for 45 minutes before skimming and straining. If you want the clearest stock possible, let the pressure dissipate slowly instead of using the release valve.

Pressure Cooker Chicken Stock Recipe »

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Pressure Cooker Brown Chicken Stock

[Photograph: Liz Clayman]

Like with the stovetop version, pressure cooker brown stock is made by roasting the bones, browning the aromatics, and adding tomato paste. One extra tip for all chicken stocks is to throw a few chicken feet into the mix for extra collagen.

Pressure Cooker Brown Chicken Stock Recipe »

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Pressure Cooker Beef Stock

[Photograph: Liz Clayman]

The pressure cooker is a nice time-saver for chicken stock, but for beef stock it’s practically a must—making beef stock on the stove can require 12 hours of simmering the beef parts and aromatics! With a pressure, you can cut the whole process down to five hours.

Pressure Cooker Beef Stock Recipe »

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Noodle Broths

Rich and Creamy Tonkotsu Ramen Broth

[Photograph: J. Kenji López-Alt]

Tonkotsu broth is an all-day affair, but the reward for your work is one of the richest, most porky broths imaginable. While cleaning the bones is optional when making fish stock, with tonkotsu it’s vital to blanch and rinse the pork bones to keep the soup from turning brown.

Rich and Creamy Tonkotsu Ramen Broth Recipe »

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Chicken Paitan Broth (Tori Paitan Dashi)

[Photograph: Vicky Wasik]

Tori paitan is tonkotsu’s chicken-based cousin, and made right it is similarly rich and creamy. We use a pressure cooker to break down a chicken carcass, which becomes so soft that you can pulverize it with an immersion blender. The finished broth is versatile enough to combine with a range of seasonings—my favorite is miso tare.

Chicken Paitan Broth (Tori Paitan Dashi) Recipe »

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Pressure Cooker Chintan Shoyu Ramen

[Photograph: Vicky Wasik]

Clear, soy-sauce based chintan shoyu ramen doesn’t get the same attention in the States as milky tonkotsu, but you shouldn’t overlook it. A traditional shoyu broth takes ages to make, but a pressure cooker can get you a similar flavor in less than an hour.

Pressure Cooker Chintan Shoyu Ramen Recipe »

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Japanese Udon With Mushroom-Soy Broth, Stir-Fried Mushrooms, and Cabbage

[Photograph: J. Kenji López-Alt]

Udon is traditionally served in dashi, but if you’re looking to make a vegan version then the bonito flakes used to make dashi are out. A broth made with only kombu is pretty bland, so we turn to a variety of mushrooms to round out the flavor. You only need the scraps from the fresh mushrooms, so save the rest to fry up as a topping for the soup.

Japanese Udon With Mushroom-Soy Broth, Stir-Fried Mushrooms, and Cabbage »

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This post may contain links to Amazon or other partners; your purchases via these links can benefit Serious Eats. Read more about our affiliate linking policy.



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Oscar Nom Noms: A Pun-tastic Menu for the 2019 Academy Awards

Oscar Nom Noms: A Pun-tastic Menu for the 2019 Academy Awards

[Photograph: Vicky Wasik] Another year, another Oscars ceremony, another menu made up of magnificent movie-related wordplay! Yeah! For the third year in a row, I find myself writing a menu of semantically appropriate foods for those who plan on eating while watching the Academy Awards […]