Month: June 2020

Save Your Vegetable Scraps, Make Stock

Save Your Vegetable Scraps, Make Stock

[Photographs: Sho Spaeth] I am going to try to convince you to save your vegetable scraps to make stock. This isn’t some life-changing tip that’ll make your cooking better by leaps and bounds. It isn’t some hack that’ll save you time, or “blow your mind,”…

How to Make Tadka | Serious Eats

How to Make Tadka | Serious Eats

A finished tadka (also called chaunk, chhonk, baghaar, and other names). [Photographs: Nik Sharma] There are many ways to coax the flavor out of dried spices, but in India, they’re often bloomed in hot fat. That technique produces an infused oil called tadka, also known…

Crispy Pork Shoulder Hash With Charred Asparagus and Serrano Chili Recipe

Crispy Pork Shoulder Hash With Charred Asparagus and Serrano Chili Recipe


[Photograph: Sasha Marx]

Now that we are a few months into the COVID-19 pandemic, it seems like for most people the initial flurry of home-cooking activity has subsided. But we still have to cook and eat, every day. One way to relieve some of the pressure of cooking so many meals at home is to embrace “batch” cooking, making things like big roasts, such as this slow-cooked pork shoulder, and then getting creative with the leftovers. Take this crispy pork hash as an example, which uses meat leftover from that roasted pork shoulder to produce a hearty crowd-pleaser that can be served any time of day, whether for a weekend breakfast or weeknight dinner.

Like cooking a pot of beans, a slow-roasted pork shoulder is a hands-off project that rewards you with a big flavor payoff. You can simply tear into the roast and pair it with a simple sauce like chimichurri or give it a full-feast treatment like this Thai-inspired roast pork spread. But you can also turn leftovers into easy offshoot recipes, similar to the way that a big batch of cooked white beans can be used in anything from a mapo-style stew to a tuna and white bean salad and a creamy white bean dip.

This crispy pork hash uses our preferred techniques for making great potato hash—par-cooking potatoes with vinegar to maximize internal tenderness and outer crispiness, as well as cooking all the components (potatoes, vegetables, and pork) separately so that they end up perfectly crisp rather than turning into a steamy, soggy mess. After charring asparagus and a serrano chili in a cast iron skillet, we crisp up leftover pulled roast pork shoulder in reserved rendered pork fat from the roast (hopefully you know not to throw out good pork fat, but if you did, you can use vegetable oil in its place). Once the pork takes on a carnitas-like crunch, we turn our attention to crisping the par-boiled potatoes before tossing them with ground coriander, chili powder, and cumin (this hash owes a great deal of inspiration to one of the all-time great taco filling combinations, chorizo and potato).

The vegetables and pork are added back to the skillet, and everything gets tossed together with any reserved drippings from the roast (once again proof of how much good flavor you can get out of one roast). Top the hash with scallions and cilantro, maybe a fried egg or two if you’re feeling the brunch vibe (it doesn’t need them though), and serve it up with warmed tortillas, fresh lime, and bright salsa verde. This hash is a leftover meal that is anything but a rehash.



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Toni Tipton-Martin’s Cookbook, Jubilee, Is a Source of Black Joy

Toni Tipton-Martin’s Cookbook, Jubilee, Is a Source of Black Joy

[Photographs: Jerrelle Guy; cover image courtesy of Penguin Random House; headshot of Toni Tipton-Martin by Pableaux Johnson] In her latest cookbook, Jubilee: Recipes from Two Centuries of African American Cooking, culinary historian and food writer Toni Tipton-Martin defines “jubilee” as restoration, resilience, celebration, and, most…

A Guide to Canned Fish and Seafood from Spain and Portugal

A Guide to Canned Fish and Seafood from Spain and Portugal

[Photographs: Vicky Wasik] The average American grocery store tends to be lacking in the canned seafood department. Besides shelves and shelves of tuna, one might find the odd can of clams, some salmon, some mackerel, and little else. But citizens of the Iberian peninsula—the region…

Alexander Smalls on How Food and Music Nurture Hope and Connection

Alexander Smalls on How Food and Music Nurture Hope and Connection


Grammy, Tony, James Beard Award Winner Alexander Smalls

[Photograph: Daniel Kreiger]

“A jukebox is the musical equivalent of a well-stocked pantry,” says Alexander Smalls. Poetic riffs on the relationship between food and music are par for the course with Smalls, who’s both a Grammy and a James Beard Award winner (not to mention a Tony winner, too). In part two of our interview, we talked about everything from hanging out with James Baldwin and Nina Simone in Paris to the guests he’d invite to his last supper. How does a table with the aforementioned Baldwin and Simone, along with Toni Morrison, Jessye Norman, Aretha Franklin, and Gloria Steinem sound? Pretty damn swell to me.

It was such a pleasure and an honor to hang out with Alexander Smalls, who is truly a national treasure. His new book is titled Meals, Music, and Muses: Recipes From My African American Kitchen, and it belongs in every household’s collection. Just like last week, we’ll play the episode out with his stunning, soon-to-be-released rendition of Wade in the Water.

Production note: With everyone hunkered down in place we are no longer able to record Special Sauce in a fully equipped studio with an experienced and skilled engineer. So if the sound quality of this episode isn’t up to snuff, know that we are working on all aspects of the production within the context of the new reality we’re all living in. Better things and better sound lie ahead.

Special Sauce is available on iTunes, Google Play Music, Soundcloud, Player FM, and Stitcher. You can also find the archive of all our episodes here on Serious Eats and on this RSS feed.

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Want to chat with me and our unbelievably talented recipe developers? We’re accepting questions for Special Sauce call-in episodes now. Do you have a recurring argument with your spouse over the best way to maintain a cast iron skillet? Have you been working on your mac and cheese recipe for the past five years, but can’t quite get it right? Does your brother-in-law make the worst lasagna, and you want to figure out how to give him tips? We want to get to know you and solve all your food-related problems. Send us the whole story at specialsauce [at] seriouseats.com.

Transcript

Ed Levine: Today, the uniquely multi-talented chef, opera singer, and author Alexander Smalls, whose new book is, Meals, Music, and Muses: Recipes from My African American Kitchen, is back with us.

EL: It’s so great, man. I have so many things I want to ask you still, man. We should have booked like 10 hours for this.

Alexander Smalls: Thanks for having me, glad to be back.

EL: So, let’s talk. First of all, why the new book?

AS: Wow.

EL: I don’t ask the easy questions.

AS: Why the new book? Well, I feel that at this point in my life, I’ve had a full ride and many, many tremendous experiences. And having the opportunity to share that with other young people, who are traveling this road that I’ve traveled. And also hopefully giving back some sense and sensibility to the journey, and sharing the lessons. This book, I feel that at this point in my life, I’ve lived long enough to have a point of view, and a view. So essentially, I look back over the landscape of where I’ve been and what I’ve done. And what I’ve tried to do in this book is to give you a sense of that journey through the lens of music and food, because those were my two walking, talking companions.

EL: And you write in the introduction to the book, and this really resonated with me. “In the United States, food and music are inextricably linked, especially in the African American culture.” What do you mean by that?

AS: Well, it’s part of our DNA. Essentially, when you think about how music and also the African American musical contributions to the landscape of our culture. And then you pair that with food, it’s art. It also speaks to the soul and spirit of an extraordinary people who have overcome so much, and yet we still celebrate.

EL: You also wrote in the introduction that food and music served a dual purpose of nurturing hope and connection.

AS: Absolutely.

EL: I thought that was so resonant and so true. And you also wrote that cooking without a song is like cooking without salt and pepper, which is pretty funny. Should everybody be singing when they’re cooking?

AS: Well, everybody should have a song in their heart. First of all, I believe that cooking should be an experience that brings joy and that you love. I don’t understand people who do things that they don’t enjoy. Even if you don’t enjoy every aspect, I always say to folks, find a dish you love. Find a dish that is of great satisfaction to prepare, and make that dish better than anybody else and make it your own. I had this one girlfriend years ago who her dish was lemon chicken. I don’t know who gave it to her, but every dinner at her house was that lemon. People would get to the point where they go, “Okay, we’re coming over for lemon chicken.”

EL: That was her jam.

AS: That was it, and she did it like nobody else.

EL: You talk in the book that your life’s work has been exploring the food of the African diaspora.

AS: Exactly.

EL: What does the African diaspora mean to you?

AS: Well, it’s everything, it’s why I’m here. I think that the foods of the low country, Charleston, Beaufort, the Gullah islands, probably the purest connection to the Argent of Africa. Essentially, through those recipes and those stories and that cooking, those ingredients, it creates a language. For people who were transplanted, it’s our history. And we’ve been able to weave the tales, the sound, the feelings, the visions of who we are through that culinary expression.

EL: You decided it was your life’s mission to piece it together?

AS: Without question, but once I understood that my work was really going to be about the food ways of the African diaspora. And I decided that understanding the importance of how food was the bedrock and foundation of our culture. The enslaved people were enslaved basically for their farming and horticultural and agricultural skills. The fact that they could do that work, and they could be the bedrock of the foundation of culinary and agriculture and farming, on five continents.

EL: And so many of those people went unrecognized for centuries.

AS: Well, because also they weren’t considered people, so it just all got canceled out. I really feel that when I do the work that I do, I’m connecting the dots, which is why Between Harlem and Heaven was so important to me. Which is why creating Afro-Asian-American cooking was so important to me because those influences really are like this extraordinary quilt. This incredible fabric that basically brings all those silent generations of enslaved people to life.

EL: Wow. You described the book as a curated set of recipes, a playlist. And I love it as somebody who put a playlist in my book.

AS: Yes you did.

EL: Why a playlist?

AS: Well, let’s approach the book from chapter to chapter. The first chapter is Jazz.

EL: Right, and we should say you organized… which I wanted to ask you about. You organized the book by musical styles.

AS: Absolutely.

EL: So the chapters are jazz, spirituals, gospel, opera, divas, jukebox music, and serenades. So now, go back.

AS: The wonderful thing about curation is that it’s an artistic expression, so there’s no rules. It’s sort of like when you have a blank canvas, you create the language. And again, I look at culinary as currency and language. Essentially, what I wanted to do was give the reader a glimpse in how I have always seen my own personal experience and expression, through music and through food. So creating the jazz chapter, for example, which are appetizers, small plates, small bites. It’s whimsical, it’s a riff on a theme. My good buddy, Wynton Marsalis, who wrote the introduction to my first book, Grace the Table, always likened my way of cooking to jazz because it was so very improvisational.

EL: And you talk about that jazz is made up of three elements, blues, improvisation, and swing, which I think is a Wynton riff. This idea of curation, one of the things you also mention in the book where you connect food to music, is that a jukebox is the equivalent of a well-stocked pantry.

AS: Well, isn’t it? My gosh, you can live off of a jukebox. And that really comes from my father’s nightclub growing up, called the Hilltop House. My father would lock me and my friends in that club with the promise of, he would put the jukebox on to play any song we wanted. And all we had to do is clean the club while we danced and played. That was his way, and then he could go off and do other things that will go unmentioned. And so there we were, and he’d put the stage on so we could pretend to sing with the mic when the jukebox was playing. So these images, the jukebox was like a well-stocked pantry. It was full of everything that was expressive, especially black life.

EL: And it was the ultimate bit of curation, right?

AS: Oh yeah.

EL: Do you remember the jukebox at the M&G Diner on 125th street?

AS: Oh yes, absolutely.

EL: Okay. Where, not only was the fried chicken awesome-

AS: Unbelievable, and the fried pork chops.

EL: And the fried pork chops, but that jukebox was full of everything from-

AS: Oh my gosh. It was amazing.

EL: Brook Benton, Rainy Night in Georgia, to all blues, and everything in between.

AS: Right, Temptations, Gladys Knight, James Brown.

EL: It was the best curated jukebox in New York.

AS: And if you gave the waitress like a $10 or a $20, being big spenders. And we went there often times after Studio 54.

EL: Right, because it was open late.

AS: Yes. And we would give, and they would play those songs and we would say, “Keep the change.” And they’d go over there, I don’t even think they put money in the thing. They knew what to do, and the music just boomed all night.

EL: So talk about, if jazz is made up of three elements, blues, improvisation, and swing. How do those three things relate to cooking?

AS: Well, again, all of those things are very much improvisation and that’s what, when you own a recipe it’s essentially an outline for your trip, say for example. But essentially, when you pair that with who you are, how you feel, what you do, then it becomes a destination. I tell people all the time, I never cook the same thing twice, which is why I’ve always had… I was a chef who had to have a chef because if you counted on me to give you the same thing you ate the last time you were here, you’re out of luck, because I don’t do that.

EL: I don’t think that would go over well with an executive chef that you were working for.

AS: But I am the executive chef, and I’ve had five restaurants so I’ve managed to make it work. But the point is that I really shine in my home kitchen, where I put a restaurant stove, and I have these salons. And essentially, friends will come in, “Oh, can you make that?” I said, “No, I can’t. I do that anymore, I’m doing this now.”

EL: That’s funny. It is like somebody asking Wynton, “Could you play this song from 1983?”

AS: Well, would you paint the Mona Lisa again? No, there is.

EL: Right. That’s funny. So you do organize the book by musical styles?

AS: Yes.

EL: Why are the starters, jazz? Why are the spiritual, spirituals? Why are the gospel, gospel and so on?

AS: Well, as I say, jazz is the hors d’oeuvres, is the improvisation. The spirituals are essentially our grains, our foundation, rice, these are like the gifts from the gods, wheat. I see them as the spiritual pantry. Then you’ve got the gospel, which is the keeper of the garden, and produce and all things that coming up out of the ground. Some of my best moments was with my grandfather, who was considered a city farmer. He had a third of an acre or half an acre in his backyard in the city, where he would have a mule come in every spring and plow it up. And we would run behind the mule cart. And then during the whole season of gardening, I would work in that garden with him, partly because of his stories. Being a boy, my grandfather was born to slaves, so he had lots of stories. He also was a rice paddy farmer. So in that garden was the gospel and it was beautiful.

EL: And what about opera?

AS: Well, because I am opera, and everything that goes with it. So those are big meals and that’s drama in the kitchen.

EL: And divas and then jukebox music. What are the diva dishes?

AS: Well, I mean-

EL: Is that where you strut your stuff as a cook?

AS: Yeah, it’s where you really… There’s a wonderful bourbon quail in cream sauce. It can be your fancy moments where you show out and you bring a touch of theater.

EL: Of grandeur.

AS: Of grandeur, yeah. One of the best chapters is sweet serenades, for example.

EL: Right, that’s the last chapter?

AS: That’s the last chapter, and how fitting when you… A serenade just like, it’s time now to just close this up with a sweet moment, and something delicate and indulgent.

EL: And jukebox music is sort of funky stuff?

AS: Well, when you read it, what came to mind for you? Think about that, because there are real moments that bring it to life. It’s like where you find your crusty.

EL: Well, I liked the jukebox chapter because it was the super funky stuff, like biscuits and muffins.

AS: Yeah, crusty.

EL: It’s like-

AS: Yeah, a pantry.

EL: Yeah, that’s kind of my jam really.

AS: Yeah. Now, I would say I am not a, what I would call a baker. That’s arts and crafts to me. I do it because it’s part of the story I tell, but I’m usually the guy who wants the metal to the fire. And a paddle, and I want to go. Baking is all about putting something together at different stages, then giving it to the oven. I don’t like to give anything. I just want to keep it.

EL: Plus it’s super precise.

AS: Well, it is. It’s super precise, although there are variational moments where you can create, but you have to have that basic structure. But my problem is that I have to let it go. When I’m cooking on top of the stove, I don’t have to let it go. I’m always on it.

EL: You always have access to it. So tell us three recipes that people should make when they first get their hands on the book.

AS: Wow. Well, it also depends on the… Well, actually you could make it any time, but if you were thinking seasonal. Let’s take the jazz chapter, for example, the black-eyed pea cakes or the crab cakes, those are wonderful things. She-crab soup will take you out. It is just one of the most incredibly delicious soups you’ll ever have. And it almost embodies all of the chapters because it has the jazz, it has the spiritual, it has the diva. It’s got all of those components.

EL: You’d have to make sure you use good crab.

AS: Oh yeah. Yeah, yeah, yeah. Well, listen, when you put all that in a dish, you want to put the finest ingredients, without question.

EL: And what else? One more recipe that, is there-

AS: I told you about the quail, which I absolutely love. I also have a wonderful rabbit dish there.

EL: Rabbit?

AS: Rabbit, absolutely. Very fresh.

EL: Did you eat rabbit growing up?

AS: Well, of course I did, I was in South Carolina.

EL: What do you mean, “Of course I did?”

AS: Well, game.

EL: I didn’t eat any rabbit.

AS: Well, did you grow up in South Carolina?

EL:No.

AS: So game, my father and my grandfather, they’d go quail hunting. They’d go rabbit hunting, venison, I grew up with all that.

EL: Wow.

AS: It’s in the book because these are… First of all, the book is my African American kitchen and what I think are the essential dishes of the African American diaspora.

EL: It’s actually very… Now that we’re talking about it, it’s not dissimilar, it’s certainly not based on Edna Lewis’s book. But it has the same sensibility, that same farm to table sensibilities. She was more direct about linking the farm to the table, but you do it sort of in passing.

AS: I would also say that I bring in a global, a more modern flair to the cooking.

EL: For sure.

AS: And I’ve also tried to make these recipes really simple because I really want you to use the book. There’s nothing worse than all these books that people acquire, that they just read and look at the pictures. I want you to use it.

EL: What’s next? Let’s talk for a second, this is another way our lives have crossed paths. You talk about making this recording, the African American Songbook, Volume One. Let’s talk about this. What are you doing with the African American Songbook, Volume One?

AS: Well, I’m excited about this project. In fact, it has the same cover as the cookbook.

EL: And you say in describing it, that you’re taking Negro spirituals and creating a modern setting for them?

AS: Well, somewhat like what I did with Southern cooking, essentially putting it. After traveling all over the world as an opera singer, I realized fine dining was really about creating a cradle, a palette, a modern foundation for local food. So the African American songbook idea was born out of the idea of so many African American songs that are being lost. I started with the spirituals primarily because once slavery was finished, the spirituals lost their purpose. Most people think the spirituals are religious music; they never were. Essentially, enslaved people were not allowed to gather or congregate unless it was religious. So, they devised a way to take scripture and hymns from the European religion and marry them with African folk songs. So they could create their own rituals and communications, which is a big part of who they were. Dancing and singing was a huge part of being African.

AS: So it sanitized in spirituals, but it provided them with that. It also allowed them a language to talk about things like the underground railroad, a road to freedom, current events. Things that they were going through, pass on messages, this was the Negro spiritual. So once slavery was done, this music was basically claimed by the church, but it just lays and lingers there without real purpose. So I teamed up with Bob Sadin and also a young producer, Ulysses Owens, Jr., who is this extraordinary percussionist, drummer, musician, composer. And the two of them, I’ve known Bob for more than 35, 40 years. He has done brilliant work with so many musicians.

EL: He is. He’s had an amazing and incredibly varied career.

AS: He’s amazing.

EL: Kind of like you, dude.

AS: What really was shocking is that he would grace me with his gifts because-

EL: Except he can’t cook.

AS: Well, but he likes to eat, and he’s probably more excited about that book than I am. He just loves it. But they have helped me, I’ve got Cyrus Chestnut on this recording.

EL: Wow, great piano player.

AS: Joseph Joubert, another great piano… They are there, and we have put together an incredible music expression.

EL: Do you think… This is an interesting question that I never really thought about, that spirituals overlap with gospel music, or they’re not one in the same?

AS: Well, gospel music probably is more of a style than a particular song. And there’s the gospel sound that overlaps not only spirituals, but rhythm and blues, folk music. Singing gospel is about a style. You can take a country song and you give it to a gospel singer.

EL: Right, you give it to James Cleveland.

AS: There it is. Give it to Aretha Franklin. You won’t recognize it, but it’ll be one of the most beautiful things you’ve ever heard.

EL: All right, now it’s time for the Special Sauce all you can answer buffet. We’re going to put a lot of pressure on you, Alexander, I’m just telling you that right now. And this first question, I think you’ve already answered. Who’s at your last supper, no family allowed? And I guess from what I’ve read, you would have Toni Morrison. You might have Jessye Norman, who you actually haven’t mentioned today, but I’m going to give you a really big table, dude. You can have six people, living or dead, men, women-

AS: Well, you’ve named two already.

EL: So Jessye Norman?

AS: Jessye was like a big sister to me, and I was very fortunate to have her in this latest documentary that’s been made of me. She’s there. So absolutely Toni, Jessie, Diahann Carroll who we just lost, a very good friend. Nina Simone, who aside from all of the wonderful stuff-

EL: This is an awesome table. You have to reserve, I could even sit on the side, man. All right, so now that’s four amazing women.

AS: I had a wonderful relationship with Nina Simone in Paris years ago, she and Jimmy Baldwin. And I’d have to invite James Baldwin because he has to take care of Nina Simone. That’s how I met them, he was taking care of her.

EL: I worked for a concert production company, we used to do Nina Simone concerts in the 70s and early 80s. She was not an easy person to deal with, at that time.

AS: No. Well, she was very unhappy. Her unhappiness consumed her life and she was very bitter. And she never forgave the world for denying her to be the greatest classical pianist.

EL: That’s so interesting.

AS: She never valued what she did in a positive way beyond that.

EL: That’s so interesting because there’s that great documentary about her.

AS: I know, I hosted the after party.

EL: But they didn’t really make the connection to the… I don’t think, maybe I just don’t remember. It was her resentment about not being able to be the classical prodigy that she was meant to be.

AS: Well, when you have someone like Nina Simone and there’s so much material. They touched on it but again, there was so much to do.

EL: It’s true.

AS: I would have hated to have that editing job.

EL: For sure. All right, so you have one more person.

AS: Well, only one more? Gosh.

EL: Yeah, I’m sorry.

AS: Then I guess it would have to be Aretha Franklin, who I knew.

EL: This is the coolest table ever. Aretha Franklin, James Baldwin, Nina Simone, Jessye Norman, Toni Morrison, and who’s the sixth person? Oh, Diahann Carroll.

AS: Diahann Carroll and Gloria Steinem. See, I’ve got her in there. Gloria Steinem, I love her.

EL: And what are you eating?

AS: Well, Toni would want the coconut cake, and my mother’s bread and butter pickles.

EL: So let’s start there.

AS: Nina would want the fried chicken. Diahann Carroll, maybe my pepper duck Caesar salad with cornbread croutons. Let’s see.

EL: This is quite a meal.

AS: Jimmy Baldwin, the grilled okra and shrimp briquettes. Let’s see.

EL: That’s a lot of food already, man.

AS: For Aretha, I would do the icebox lemon pie. How about that?

EL: That’s not a light meal, I have to say. I don’t think cardiologists would approve, but it’d be delicious.

AS: I don’t think there’s a light eater at the table.

EL: All right, now here’s a really interesting question. What are you listening to?

AS: Let’s see. Well, we couldn’t listen to Nina because she would be distracted and maybe turn over the table. Aretha wouldn’t mind us listening to her, so I would do early Aretha when she was still under her father’s tutelage.

EL: That must’ve been a very complicated relationship between-

AS: You have no idea.

EL: Off-mic, we will get into that. So, three books that have profoundly influenced your life?

AS: Well, Toni Morrison, The Bluest Eye. Jimmy Baldwin, Giovanni’s Room. This is going to be odd for you, but William Faulkner, The Sound and the Fury.

EL: So what do you cook when there’s nothing in the house to eat, like if you just had your pantry?

AS: Oh, I love this. I love just going to see what’s in the refrigerator and in the cabinets and pulling things. I would say it starts with the grain, it starts with either pasta or rice. I lived in Italy for three years and I spent my summers every year in Italy, forever. Had I not opened a restaurant of my heritage, I probably would have opened an Italian restaurant. So I can cook Italian food, and pasta is some of the most fulfilling, interesting, creative ingredients. And I feel the same way with rice. I could be as simple as fried rice with a fried egg on top. In fact, when I used to come in from the Studio 54, the dish I always wanted was white rice and a fried egg. That’s it.

EL: That’s funny.

AS: But I will tell you my favorite food, and there is a recipe for my favorite food in all three of my books. And probably different in all three, it’s hot dogs.

EL: Hot dogs?

AS: I love hot dogs.

EL: That’s awesome. So wait, so are we talking kosher style all beef, are we talking about beef and pork? Oh, you don’t really care.

AS: Well, I do. When I started, I didn’t care much, but I do. Right now I buy veal hotdogs from the Russian delicatessen, those are my favorites.

EL: Got it. So it’s just been declared Alexander Smalls Day, all over the world.

AS: Mercy.

EL: What’s happening on that day?

AS: Everybody’s having hot dogs.

EL: Of course.

AS: Chili dogs.

EL: Chili dogs?

AS: You have to make the chili, and then you have to make a slaw. And the secret of the slaw is the sweet pickle relish, or bread and butter relish, you have to do that. So that’s happening.

EL: Are people dancing, singing, or are they just hanging out?

AS: Well, I think that there probably should be a full on out music festival, but of course with my recipes being served or made available. And there are enough recipes for that, and then we got to get a little singing. We got to get a little group stuff going on. Oftentimes, the dinner parties at my house result in moving to the piano and we’re all getting up, singing all kinds of songs. And some of the guests that I didn’t even know could sing.

EL: That’s really funny. Wow, all right, that’s quite a day. I think people would really enjoy Alexander Smalls Day.

AS: That’s nice, I’ve never been asked that question.

EL: Listen, man. Thank you so much for sharing your special sauce with us, Alexander Smalls. It’s been great having you here. Wow, what a pleasure.

AS: Thank you. I’ve enjoyed myself.

EL: Wow, what a pleasure and an honor it was to talk to Alexander Smalls, who is truly a national treasure. Alexander’s new book is titled Meals, Music, and Muses: Recipes from my African-American Kitchen. And just like last week we will leave you with his stunning, soon to be released rendition of Wade in the Water. So long, Serious Eaters. Please stay safe and healthy. We’ll see you next time.

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[Photographs: Vicky Wasik, Shao Z.] If you’re familiar with Korean cuisine, then you’ve probably come across gochujang, a spicy-sweet chili paste that’s as versatile as it is delicious. The pungent paste is made from red chili pepper flakes, fermented soy beans, glutinous rice, and salt.…

Cold Brew Iced Coffee Recipe

Cold Brew Iced Coffee Recipe

[Photographs: Daniel Gritzer] The main thing you need to know about cold brew is right there in its name: It’s coffee that’s brewed using cold (or, really, room temperature) water, rather than hot water. The process takes longer—most methods call for an overnight steep—and the…

17 Bean Salad Recipes for Summer

17 Bean Salad Recipes for Summer


Collage of bean salad recipes

[Photographs: J. Kenji López-Alt, Vicky Wasik]

The advantages of bean salads are many—they’re nutritious, economical, and easy to prepare, and they’ll keep well in the refrigerator for days. The primary downside is that they’re usually boring. Even the phrase “bean salad” doesn’t feel particularly inspirational; you don’t generally expect it to be followed up with “Yay!” or “Can’t wait for that bean salad!”

But to make a bean salad that’s both practical and crave-able is easier than you might think. Cook your beans well, prioritize setting up contrasts in texture and flavor, and, whatever you do, don’t skimp on the vinaigrette! Beans readily soak up liquid, so they often require more (and more intensely flavored) dressing.

Ready to get cooking? Keep scrolling for 17 bean salads that you’ll truly look forward to eating, including a smoky chickpea salad with bacon and Cotija, a simple pairing of plump cranberry beans and tender poached salmon, and a few seasonally suitable salads using crunchy fresh green beans.

Easy Make-Ahead Carrot and Chickpea Salad With Dill and Pumpkin Seeds

[Photograph: J. Kenji López-Alt]

Healthy, hearty, and earthy in flavor, chickpeas are always a solid choice for salads. This recipe pairs their sturdy texture with soft, sweet grated carrot and a dill vinaigrette. Pumpkin seeds, quickly toasted in the microwave, are an easy way to add crunch. This salad isn’t just good the next day—it actually gets better if you let the flavors meld overnight.

Easy Make-Ahead Carrot and Chickpea Salad With Dill and Pumpkin Seeds Recipe »

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Make-Ahead Chickpea Salad With Cumin and Celery

[Photograph: J. Kenji López-Alt]

This refreshing chickpea salad is made with crunchy celery and bright parsley tossed in a vinaigrette flavored with shallots and cumin. Make it with canned chickpeas if you’re really pressed for time, but we’d recommend using dried ones—they provide better flavor and texture, and they’re also cheaper.

Make-Ahead Chickpea Salad With Cumin and Celery Recipe »

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Chickpea Salad With Bacon, Cotija, and Roasted Chilies

[Photograph: J. Kenji López-Alt]

Though beans are often associated with vegetarian diets, and “health food” overall, there’s no reason not to mix them with meat if you eat both. Here, we add crisped bacon to chickpeas, which do a great job of soaking up meaty flavor, and use rendered bacon fat as a base for the savory, rich vinaigrette. Charred Poblano chilies offer a nice smokiness to complement the bacon, while briny Cotija cheese and tart lime juice perk up this intense dish.

Chickpea Salad With Bacon, Cotija, and Roasted Chilies Recipe »

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Roasted Chickpea and Kale Salad With Sun-Dried Tomato Vinaigrette

[Photograph: J. Kenji López-Alt]

Using canned chickpeas in your salads saves significant time, but at the cost of full flavor. We settle on a good compromise in this nutrient-packed recipe by roasting canned chickpeas, which concentrates their nuttiness and crisps them up a bit. Massaging the raw kale leaves with olive oil softens and tenderizes them (and adds flavor to boot), and a lemony sun-dried tomato vinaigrette provides a tart finish to an otherwise simple dish.

Roasted Chickpea and Kale Salad With Sun-Dried Tomato Vinaigrette Recipe »

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Charred Corn, Radish, Jicama, and Green Bean Salad With Lime Dressing

[Photograph: J. Kenji López-Alt]

Blanched fresh green beans add a bright crunch to this salad, made with nutty, slightly chewy charred corn, subtly sweet and crisp jicama, and spicy radishes. A simple dressing of lime juice and olive oil, with a touch of honey to echo the sweetness of the jicama and corn, is all you need.

Charred Corn, Radish, Jicama, and Green Bean Salad With Lime Dressing Recipe »

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Spicy Thai-Style Pomelo, Green Bean, and Zucchini Salad

[Photograph: J. Kenji López-Alt]

Thai cuisine is full of salads made with pomelo, a meaty, mildly bitter citrus fruit similar to a grapefruit. In our version of a pomelo salad, we pair the fruit with blanched green beans and raw zucchini, then dress it with a Southeast Asian–style blend of garlic, dried chilies, sugar, lime juice, and fish sauce. Can’t find pomelos? Grapefruit will work fine, too; just steer clear of sweet varieties, like pink or ruby red.

Spicy Thai-Style Pomelo, Green Bean, and Zucchini Salad Recipe »

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Grilled Green Bean Salad With Red Peppers and Radishes

[Photograph: J. Kenji López-Alt]

Grilling is a fairly labor-intensive, attention-consuming activity, which might leave you without much thought to put into your side dishes. This salad solves the problem by allowing you to prep most of the ingredients in advance. Before your cookout, toss sliced radishes, scallions, and red peppers in a bowl with a vinaigrette and set it aside. Once your mains come off the grill, throw on some olive oil–coated green beans until they’re blistered and smoky (just a minute or so). Combine them with the other ingredients and you’re ready to go.

Grilled Green Bean Salad With Red Peppers and Radishes Recipe »

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2-Bean Salad With Fire-Roasted Jalapeños and Pickled Red Peppers

[Photograph: Jennifer Olvera]

Blanched green beans and red kidney beans give substance to this salad, while pickled red peppers and roasted jalapeños contribute plenty of flavor and heat. The intensely acidic white wine vinaigrette, while too tart to be palatable on its own, is just right with the hearty beans.

2-Bean Salad With Fire-Roasted Jalapeños and Pickled Red Peppers Recipe »

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Bean Salad With Radicchio, Radish, Pickled Onions, and Marcona Almonds

[Photograph: Vicky Wasik]

This recipe highlights one of our main rules of thumb for making a good bean salad: Cram it full of contrasting flavors and textures. We bring in a medley of ingredients to do it, including bitter radicchio and grassy parsley, sharp radishes and pungent scallions, tangy quick-pickled red onion and crunchy Marcona almonds. As for the beans themselves, use whatever you’ve got in your pantry—black-eyed peas are pictured here, but you can try black beans or navy beans, or even a mix of all three if you’d like.

Bean Salad With Radicchio, Radish, Pickled Onions, and Marcona Almonds Recipe »

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Salmon Bean Salad

[Photograph: Vicky Wasik]

Beans salads aren’t incompatible with green salads, as this recipe, combining plump cranberry beans and peppery arugula, demonstrates. Salmon fillet, poached with a few aromatics, turns the dish into a meal. For salmon that’s especially juicy and tender, we’ve found that cold-start poaching works best: Place the fish in a pot of cold water and gently bring the water up to around 170°F.

Salmon Bean Salad Recipe »

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Black Bean Salad With Corn, Cilantro, and Chili-Lime Vinaigrette

[Photograph: J. Kenji López-Alt]

Since black beans are commonly found in Southwestern cooking, it’s a natural move to combine them with other regional flavors, like cilantro, jalapeños, and corn, in this salad. A vinaigrette seasoned with lime and ancho chili powder lends smoky and tart flavors, and a topping of crushed tortilla chips adds necessary texture.

Black Bean Salad With Corn, Cilantro, and Chili-Lime Vinaigrette Recipe »

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Greek Butter Bean Salad With Tomatoes, Dill, and Oregano

[Photograph: Jennifer Olvera]

Inspired by gigantes plaki, or Greek-style baked beans, this room-temperature salad starts with a base of creamy butter beans. A vinegary tomato dressing, flavored with dill, parsley, cinnamon, and oregano, does a good job of complementing the mildness of the beans. While we almost always prefer fresh herbs to dried ones, this recipe calls for the specific flavor of dried Greek oregano.

Greek Butter Bean Salad With Tomatoes, Dill, and Oregano Recipe »

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Garlicky Oven-Roasted Green Bean Salad With Hazelnuts and Blue Cheese

[Photograph: Jennifer Olvera]

Both green beans and wax beans come together in this simple room-temperature salad. After tossing with vinegar, olive oil, garlic, salt, and pepper, the beans get a quick roast in the oven. Finish the salad with hazelnuts and blue cheese, and serve with roasted meats to best compliment their flavor.

Garlicky Oven-Roasted Green Bean Salad With Hazelnuts and Blue Cheese Recipe »

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Easy Fava Bean and Carrot Salad With Ricotta

[Photograph: J. Kenji López-Alt]

Bright green fava beans and tender carrots are at their best when their true flavors can shine. After blanching the fava beans, we toss them in a simple dressing consisting of olive oil, lemon juice, and lemon zest. Once we add the carrots and shallots, we finish it off with a simple seasoning of salt and pepper. Serve this salad with ricotta cheese and toasted bread for a simple yet hearty snack.

Easy Fava Bean and Carrot Salad With Ricotta Recipe »

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Warm Spanish-Style Giant-Bean Salad With Smoked Paprika and Celery

[Photograph: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt]

Tender, creamy giant lima beans get a Spanish-style makeover in this warm salad. You’ll want to reach for quality olive oil and sherry vinegar to compliment the canned beans well. Cook these ingredients in a skillet on the stove, along with tomato paste, garlic, shallots, celery, and paprika. Five minutes later, you’ll be left with a flavor-packed bean salad that’s begging to be paired with a warm and crusty slice of bread.

Warm Spanish-Style Giant-Bean Salad With Smoked Paprika and Celery Recipe »

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Quick-Marinated White Bean Salad and Feta Lettuce Cups

[Photograph: Matthew and Emily Clifton]

The creamy texture of white cannellini beans pairs perfectly with the crunch of a lettuce cup. Here, the beans absorb a vinaigrette made up of garlic, lemon juice, vinegar, olive oil, mustard, and honey. After the beans and shallots are coated in the vinaigrette, they’re tossed with briny olives, fresh cucumbers, tomatoes, and feta cheese. With lettuce cups doubling as a vehicle for serving, this dish was made for picnics and potlucks.

Quick-Marinated White Bean Salad and Feta Lettuce Cups Recipe »

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White Bean and Tuna Salad

[Photograph: Sasha Marx]

This pantry-friendly salad is a hearty but light dish that’s perfect for warmer days. We start off by giving sliced red onions an ice bath to tame their pungent bite, then marinate them with vinegar and salt. Then, we mix the onion slices with the creamy, cooked white beans and rich, oil-packed tuna belly. To make the dressing, we whisk together some of the leftover vinegar-onion juice with a bit of bean cooking liquid and plenty of freshly ground black pepper. Finish it off with some olive oil and fresh parsley, then enjoy along with a healthy dose of sunshine.

White Bean and Tuna Salad Recipe »

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Nutritional Yeast: What It Is, How It’s Made, and How to Use It

Nutritional Yeast: What It Is, How It’s Made, and How to Use It

[Photograph: Vicky Wasik] Nutritional yeast—or “nooch”—spent decades as a staple of the vegan pantry. Serious plant-based cooks have long reached for the flaky, yellow substance whenever they were looking for a cheesy, nutty flavor, in a salad dressing perhaps, or to season roasted vegetables. Some…